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You've probably never seen a Sherpa before. So you're probably not aware they wear red hats, hand-woven skirts, warm woolen scarves and...mmm, just a minute.
It was the pack that threw me. On second glance, this
appears to be Leela discussing the relative merits of boots versus flip-flops
for high-altitude trekking with heavy loads. If I know the lady, she's
telling him there's no reason he should be humping pate and pita bread
up snowy mountain passes for dilettante climbers. And he's likely suggesting
that it's easier than carrying the climbers themselves, although the Champage
bottles do tend to dig into his ribs.
This is just a guess because I was busy making sure
there was a shadow of overhead wires lining his face. I know the dog perked
up rather suddenly, so perhaps we both just thought we heard pate mentioned.
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| Shoes repaired while you wait. If you click on the picture to see the
larger image, you'll see a three-pronged foot-tall metal object directly
in front of the man. He flips this around as need so that the right metal
plate faces up, allowing him to drive nails into new soles and heels.
My grandfather was a cobbler and I've always had a special affection for
the men who fix our shoes and the tools they use. What do they say about
cobblers children having the worst shoes? This cobbler has none at all. |
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Every day the orange ladies sat in front of the stone wall, adding their color and warmth to the day. Every once in a while an orange would escape and one of the children would retrieve it. |
| Peace, brother. Or perhaps Leela is just ordering two. These vendors
prepare Indian sweets that start with a round, crusty, hollow ball of
pastry much like an empty eggshell. They punch a hole into it with their
thumbs and fill it with whatever is on offer. Leela loves them. I pretend
to be interested in photography. Of course I'm not too interested in the
desserts of most countries, including my own. If it's not ice cream or
sorbet or pumpkin pie like grandma made or chocolate anything then I'd
rather have a bit more of the main meal, please, and skip dessert. |
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Just down from the orange ladies, there was a bit of street theater
getting started. Two boys set up a box and a third boy got inside. Will
he disappear? Dozens of people were willing to wait to find out while
they listen to the amusing banter of the oldest boy. |
| I'd love to tell you the outcome but the build-up took so long that
my Western feet began itching to go someplace else. It wouldn't have mattered
if it were David Copperfield come to the Himalayas, however. I don't like
magic any more than dessert. I'm going to guess that he disappeared, but
not for long. |
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In front of the State Bank of India, there's a cement landing surrounded
by a cement wall. I looked over it to find the Motorcycle Artist intent
on his painting with his paint bottles and spare brushes sitting on his
bike. More than most pictures, this one shows the incredible detail you
get from a PhotoCD scan of a slide. Click on the red dot to get the largest
image here and realize that a PhotoCD contains another twice as large.
At 3000x2000 pixels you can see whether he cleans his fingernails.  |
| There are nearly as many ways of making a living as there are people.
Like the laborer with the wooden pack on his back, this man carries a
moveable feast -- or at least a snack -- to where his customers are.
And like the tractor roaring over the rise, this photo was a hipshot,
taken just before the crowd closed around him again. |
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When Leela and I arrived at Bagdogra, the military airport two and a
half hours south of town, and went looking for transport to Darjeeling,
we were approached by Mr. Blue and his sidekick. He was quite friendly
and spoke English and we had as good a trip as you can have in the back
of Land Rover over rough roads. When we arrived in Darjeeling and got
out, I saw the back of his coat with "Betty & Don's Beehive Tavern." Betty
and Don are my parents' names. It may not be a great story but it's
a great coincidence.
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Finally, sometimes the best thing you can do when the world's in a whirl is stand still and smile.  |
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